Swat and Shovel

There’s an old joke that says in the U.P. there are two seasons, Swat and Shovel, and based on the month of October I’m inclined to believe it. Two weeks ago, I was basking in temperatures that reached 70 degrees and crushing the occasional mosquito making me its last meal of the year. This week I endured heavy, wet snow and treacherous driving conditions. I offer you these pictures as evidence.

Testing an old adage

In life, there are good days and bad days. Wednesday was a bad one and I should have seen it coming. I

wanted to check one last time for the salmon run in the western U.P. tributaries. A fisheries biologist had emailed Monday to tell me that the run was over, but I just didn’t believe him. Besides, even if he was right, I had the feeling that heavy rain on Monday might push more fish into the rivers.

The trip to the river was filled with Sunday drivers who apparently had mistaken Wednesday for that day. To make matters worse, I was followed by an officer for 60 miles of the trip, meaning I couldn’t pass without risking a ticket whose cost might surpass the price of my last fly rod.

I finally got to the river and headed straight for the falls that blocks any upstream migration of fish. The river I was on is essentially a steep canyon from its mouth to the falls and navigating the sometimes rocky, sometimes clay-covered, always root-filled cliffs was difficult at best and deadly at worst. One slip meant a fall to rocks 30 feet below or a raging river now flowing at 500 cubic feet per second higher than it had been two days earlier.

There were two anglers holding fly rods at the falls’ base and I skidded my way down to see them. The spawn-sack-soaking pair was quick to provide what I wanted to hear … the run had started late last week and was definitely on. One of the gentlemen reported catching three kype-jawed brown trout and one silvery coho. He also shared that he had seen several porpoising Chinooks and I was starting to feel that all my scouting would finally pay off. I wished the pair luck and headed downstream to find a spot to fish.

The first spot I chose, a large back eddy, was an obvious location to fish as it had the remnants of a warming fire, a broken spinner and an empty Rapala box strewn about. My indicator bounced in the current the first two casts and, on the third one, it disappeared. I set the hook hard and in a split second turned my favorite nine-foot, eight weight into an eight-foot six inch model. The rod was no match for the bedrock which had taken my fly.

I recovered the top half of the rod thanks to the indicator still on the line – the flies remain attached to Mother Earth – and walked back to my truck to get a new rod. As I rigged my back-up, I realized that my wife had been wrong every time I came home with a new fly rod. You truly can never have enough rods.

Back on the river, I looked for a new spot and I chose poorly. Again I should have seen it coming. The path to the Spartan shore had everything required to create a disaster ... jagged rocks, wet clay and slippery tree roots. I remember thinking, “I know I can get down there, but I hope I can get out.” Sure enough the trip down went off without a hitch and soon I was nymphing and casting flies into a narrow stretch of water that just had to hold fish. (If it did, the fish weren’t at all cooperative or appreciative of my efforts. I never had a grab.) After losing a few flies to the rocks, I re-rigged and started to climb out. About half-way up the 30-foot slope, my  foot slipped and I tumbled back down to the water’s edge stopping, miraculously inches shy of the raging torrent. My rod had not broken but my right ring finger was already swelling and turning that deep purple color indicative of a broken bone.

I fished another hour, soaking my finger every few minutes in the ice-cold water, before climbing back out of the gorge and calling it a day. A few cold beers, a cheap cigar and a hot sauna on the shores of Lake Superior helped me forget the day but left me wondering if that old adage, “a bad day of fishing is better than a good day at work,” is actually true. On Wednesday, it sure wasn’t.

Yes, I am superstitious

I have to believe that every fly angler is, to some degree, superstitious and I am among those who believe that leaving your lucky shirt, hat, rod or fly at home can spell disaster. Consider this story.

By last Wednesday, the rivers had finally dropped to fishable levels following three inches of rain over the weekend. I was eager to throw some streamers because post-flooding fishing can be (as one shop rat in Montana once told me) “stupid good.”  I was about to hit the river in time to fish the last couple hours when I realized my lucky shirt was back in camp. I was undeterred and jumped into the water expecting to catch a fish on every cast.  When I walked back to the truck in the waning daylight, however, I found myself on the receiving end of an ass-kicking by the fish as in I had been skunked for the first time all year.

The next day I was on the same schedule, having spent the day scouting waters that are now closed. I wandered down to the same river at the same time with the same streamer except now I had my lucky shirt on my back. The result? Stupid good fishing.

There are still some good days to be had on the water this week and the fall colors remain brilliant in some parts of the U.P. But with snow showers forecast for the weekend, it won’t be long before I will be hanging up my lucky shirt in the cabin for the season (make that putting it in the back of my truck) and that will be a sad day as it has been a tremendous year.

A tale of two seasons

This past week in the U.P. was certainly a tale of two seasons. Early in the week, it was definitely summer with high temperatures in the 70s and stunningly blue skies. Wednesday night the bottom dropped out and fall came roaring in as highs struggled to reach the 50s and heavy rains turned some rivers to mud and all rivers into raging torrents. Nonetheless, we managed to catch fish.

Early in the week, fish (especially big browns) were keyed in on girdle bugs and copper johns. Later, when the cooler weather made its appearance, streamers became the fly of choice and rainbows became much more active. The fall colors made fishing a pleasure all week long as trees reached their peak. From crimson maples to fiery oaks to orange aspens, the week was one to remember.

One thing that still hasn’t shown (unless I missed it during my road travel) is the fall salmon run. I scouted a river known to harbor a good migration and saw no signs of the large fish. There were no fish (dead or alive) in the water and no anglers chasing them. Perhaps the heavy rains will change that picture. In the meantime, enjoy some more fall photos I posted on our website.

A good day in the Driftless area

This week I had the pleasure of serving as a fishing host for a couple of Trout Unlimited (TU) members as

TU is holding its annual meeting in Middleton. I was lucky enough to have two seasoned anglers and great guys placed with me.

At first, I was a bit less than optimistic about our chances. I arrived in Westby on Monday afternoon and, while I was able to coax a few fish into biting, was less than successful on the Timber Coulee, where I had planned on taking my guests. Low water and high angling pressure had made the fishing quite difficult throughout the area and, being late September, the fish definitely knew how the game was played. To make matters worse, I managed to walk right into a barbed-wire fence late in the day and turned one leg of my Simms waders into a colander.

I fixed my waders and headed out early Tuesday morning to see if things were better on the Bad Axe. While the fish were still quite selective, I managed to catch a number of nice fish on streamers and scuds. Later in the day, I headed over to Coon Creek only to find it quite silted due to stream improvement work being done on Spring Coulee Creek. I decided to go upstream from the work as I assumed the fish would migrate there to avoid the turbidity. They had and I caught a number of really nice browns

.

I picked up Paul and Michael the next day in Richland Center and made Reads Creek our first stop. It took a bit to find fish that weren’t spooky, but when we did both gentlemen caught fish on scuds. As I mentioned above, both are experienced anglers and excellent casters which really made my job easy. About noon, we decided to see if the hopper bite was on. It was lunchtime and, being limited on time, we did what every hard-core angler does … we turned my vehicle into a rolling restaurant and hit the road.

Paul’s first two casts into Coon Creek yielded fish, the second a beautiful 14 inch rainbow. (A rainbow is a rarity in the Driftless area and, when I heard him yell that he had a rainbow on, initially thought he couldn't tell the difference between a brown and a rainbow. When I told Paul that, he said his ichthyology students would have enjoyed that comment. Paul is a retired fisheries expert and knows his fish.) He disappeared upstream as Michael and I found a different stretch for him to fish. Michael’s first fish was a 14 inch brown and, by the time I got back to Paul, he had a huge grin on his face from the fun he had been having. Michael put another fish in his hand in the limited time we had before I had to get them back to Richland Center. Despite being a short day, I believe they had a very nice introduction to the Driftless area. I know that I had fun fishing with them and couldn’t have asked for nicer guys to spend the day with.

Every angler and conservation-minded person should be thankful that there are groups like TU. Its members are dedicated and volunteer their time and money to ensure that waters are protected and restored. TU was founded on the principle that if you “take care of the fish, then the fishing will take care of itself.”  Based on my day with Paul and Michael, our waters are in good hands.

1,000 miles of memories

It has been a busy past ten days for me and, after more than 1,000 miles behind the windshield of my truck, I have come to two conclusions. First, fall is here and second, there are some very special people in this world.

I pointed my truck east late last week and headed to Lower Michigan to plug my new adventure and to do some fishing. I turned off the key in a small harbor town on Lake Michigan where I had the pleasure of joining a group of guys for their annual “Pink Salmon” outing. (They no longer fish pink salmon but the name stuck and you don’t mess with tradition.) Letting a new guy into a long-established get together is always risky, especially when the chemistry is already perfect, but Randy, Dave, Bill and Tom welcomed me into the fold with open arms. Over the next three days, they fed me, tied some of their favorite flies for me, and took me to their secret spots in a nearby state forest where I heard a true sign of fall, bugling elk (a sound I had not heard since a backpacking trip to Yellowstone in 1998).

I returned to the U.P. to low temperatures in the 20s, geese flying overhead as they made their way south, snow fence being installed and with just enough time to fish a few streams in advance of a trip with my client, Sue. Pictured above with one of the many brook trout she caught, this one a 13 incher, Sue is an accomplished fly angler, a true world traveler, and a great person to spend two days on the water with. Having visited more than 100 countries (including time in a base camp high upon Mt. Everest), the week flew by quickly as she recalled stories that brought a smile to your face one moment and put a lump in your throat the next. Add to that the yellows and reds of the changing leaves and the equally brilliant hues of fall brook trout decked out in their spawning attire and I ended the ten days with memories to last me well into the upcoming winter months. Thanks to all these special people for sharing their time with me.

No joy in Mudville

I have had a number of folks ask me to let them know when the fall salmon run begins, so I spent a whole day behind my windshield yesterday checking out Lake Superior tributaries for signs that it has begun. Alas, there is no joy in Mudville.

I was actually a bit encouraged on my first stop as I saw a bald eagle feeding across the river. Unfortunately, the river was too deep to cross and I couldn't get a good look at what it was eating. I was then lucky enough to run into two gentlemen from the Michigan Department of Natural Resources who told me what I suspected … they have heard no reports of fish in the rivers except for one person who told them he had caught two fish near the mouth of the Presque Isle.

I still had a fun day scouting the water and even had a chance to visit with this goose. He or she (I can never tell which is which) was alone and swam off when I began to throw a few casts.  Stay tuned to my blog and I will let you know when I have better news.